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The worst mistake you could make is passing up the dessert menu, which includes several options for-what else? Pie! Mudslide pie, intensely chocolatey, was creamy as could be and artfully plated there’s also banana cream pie, pear galette with butter pecan ice cream, and more, courtesy of Lazy Betty pastry chef Carelys Vazquez. Lest you get the wrong idea, though, the pies themselves are in the $20 range, and other shareable dishes walk the line between fancy and simply fun: for instance, truffle fries, crab hush puppies, and a buttery, garlicky side of roasted broccolini. The latter comes with a little ramekin of clam butter for dipping, and if that feels like gilding the lily, that’s sort of the point-the chefs’ background in haute cuisine is also reflected in add-ons like caviar (starting at $35 for half an ounce) and black truffle ($25). Working with chef Evelyn Ling, they provide standard offerings like pepperoni and margherita pizzas as well as bespoke options like Loaded Baked Potato, with cheddar, chives, and bacon, and a clam pizza with fior di latte and charred lemon. Who dares mess with perfection? The secret behind this flashy new pizzeria in the Interlock complex is its combination of solid fundamentals (long-fermented dough, made from DaySprings Farms flour and baked in a wood-fired oven), pies that wander just a little bit outside the box, and a killer culinary team led by Ron Hsu and Aaron Phillips, the pair behind the Candler Park prix fixe restaurant Lazy Betty.

Notwithstanding some regional variations-you’ve got your Neapolitan, your Detroit style, your Brazilian style-you don’t see an enormous amount of innovation in the pizza space. The space, meanwhile, is gorgeous-bright and airy, with plenty of outdoor seating. (The aforementioned pepperoni butter finds new life as pepperoni mayo on a cold-cut sandwich.) A couple salads are equally fine-especially a lively pickled-beet number with pink peppercorn ranch, ricotta salata, and dill-and fans of Banshee’s cocktail program will feel at home here with a brief, amaro-forward list of offerings I was fond of the rye-based Captain’s Log, accented with the nutty, herby, slightly candylike Italian liqueur Faretti Biscotti. That roast beef melt, for instance, gets a bulgogi-ish treatment with Korean barbecue sauce, American cheese, napa cabbage, and miso mayo, and the phenomenally good chopped-chicken, pictured above, is a kind of Middle Eastern mash-up: zhoug mayo, feta, olives, and big chunks of crunchy potatoes. Bona Fide Deluxe’s menu comprises eight deli-style sandwiches, in some sense recognizable specimens (there’s a chicken sandwich, a roast beef melt, and so on), but the beneficiaries of just enough special attention to keep things interesting. Both foreshadowed the Banshee team’s latest venture, a superb counter-service sandwich shop and cocktail bar steps from the Edgewood–Candler Park MARTA station. The other was a few hefty sandwiches optimized for that same purpose. Pivoting to takeout during the depths of the pandemic, the hip EAV restaurant Banshee became known for a couple of things: One was chef Nolan Wynn’s pepperoni butter, otherwise part of a plated appetizer but available, in extremis, to purchase by the pint and take home.